Current Modifications

• Air intake silencer removed: (8/25/1997)
  Easy mod that only takes about five minutes to do. If you don't know about it already, it involves removing the short rubber intake hose that is connected to the stock air filter housing. It comes right out of the housing, and can be removed by reaching up under the fender and yanking. Basically it's a simple way to get more air into the intake manifold, and is good for a couple horsepower.
  
• K&N Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit: (9/8/97)
  This kit replaces the entire stock air filter housing, leaving you with the mass air sensor connected directly to the K&N filter. It took me (a novice at car work) about two hours to install the kit. The instructions they give you are very straightforward and the hardest part is drilling the hole into the fender to mount the unit (you have to drill into your baby!). I didn't notice more power, but the car seems to accelerate smoother than before. Another bonus was the new tone of the engine when I let on the throttle. It's louder, and a bit more aggressive sounding with the K&N. As far as gas mileage, I haven't seen any noticeable increase or decrease.
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• Valentine One Radar/Laser Locator:
  Okay, this isn't really a mod, but it's something that I'd recommend to anyone who has a tendency to, *achem*, get places in a hurry. There are two features of the Valentine One that I think set it apart from other detectors, and justify the higher cost ($400 as opposed to $100-$200 for most detectors). One is the locator arrows, which show you if the signal is coming from the front, side, or rear. Second is the "bogey" counter, which lets you know how many different signals the unit is tracking. Very useful for weeding out false alarms from the real thing!
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• Auto Specialties aluminum underdrive pulleys (3 piece set): (1/19/1998)
  These pulleys replace the factory set to give the drive belt a new ratio and run the accessories slower than stock. By using less of the engine's power to run the water pump, alternator, and power steering, you get 10-15 more horsepower to the rear wheels. There's also the added benefit of longer accessory life (since they run slower) and better gas mileage.
  The install wasn't too complicated, but you're going to need an impact wrench to get the factory alternator pulley off. With the help of my friend, we took off the entire alternator, brought it over to Goodyear, and the mechanic switched the pulleys in a few minutes.
  As far as results, I don't have any dyno tests or exact measurements, but the car does seem a little faster in bottom line acceleration. From what I've noticed so far, my gas mileage has improved by 1-2 mpg. Another thing you will notice after the switch is that the alternator will not send out as much power as it did with the stock pulleys. When I sit at a light (low RPM's) and have the stereo, headlights, and wipers on all at once, I've noticed the battery voltage drop a bit lower than it used to. But it never goes out of the "normal" range, so it shouldn't be a problem.
  You can read in detail about the entire installation process at the Paradise Garage.
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• B&M ShiftPlus Electronic Shift Improver: (2/7/1998)
  This shift improver plugs into the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) of the car and electronically calibrates the shifting of AODE transmissions (92 and up). The shifts are harder, firmer, and faster than stock, plus the unit has three settings, so you can control what kind of shifts you want (stock, Stage I, and Stage II). The unit is fairly easy to install once you locate the computer on your car, because you only have to splice in two wires. Unfortunately, the instructions from B&M aren't very accurate as far as the location of the PCM, so I spent a while searching for it. On a '95 Mustang, the computer is located in the passenger side foot-well, behind a panel next to the door, on the right side. Once the panel is removed, you will need to push aside a couple wire harnesses to get access to the PCM. Also, you may have trouble using the connectors that come with the kit, because one of the wires you need to attach to the shift improver is too large, and the wire must be stripped before crimping on the connector. Be careful not to cut the wire completely! With the unit attached, you can route the wires behind the dashboard and over to the driver's side. I placed the unit to the left of the center console, right next to the stereo, using the velcro tape that comes with the kit. Overall, I'm happy with the improvement. Although the instructions weren't great, I like the fact that you can return the shifting to stock when firm shifts aren't needed.
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• UPDATE! (3/31/1999)
  Due to the recent reports of problems with the B&M Electronic Shift Improver, I am no longer recommending that they be installed. A few people have had serious EEC-IV computer or transmission problems as a result of using the Shift Improver. Until this issue is resolved by B&M, my opinion is that you take a large risk by putting one in your car. A more reliable alternative would be to install a Trans-Go Shift kit, which is described in a later section...
• Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back exhaust system: (3/9/1998)
  Replacing the factory exhaust system is one of the most common modifications done to a Mustang, and installing a Flowmaster system is the popular choice among enthusiasts. The kit comes with everything you need to replace the exhaust system past the catalytic converters. It includes 2.5" pipe from the cats to the mufflers, two Flowmaster 2-chamber mufflers, and two mandrel bent, stainless steel, 2.5" exhaust tips. The instructions gave us a good framework to complete the installation, and the whole process took a friend and I six hours to finish. Cutting the factory tailpipes from the mufflers consumed most of the time, because I was working with a hacksaw. If it's available, I'd suggest using a cutting torch, or sawzall to save time (and muscles!). Once the old system was off, we didn't have much trouble getting the Flowmaster system in place. Those factory muffler and tailpipe hangers can be tough to work with, but if you use some WD-40 on them, installation is a snap. The best part is the results! As soon as I started the car up with the Flowmasters on, you could notice the difference. The car has a real smooth growl to it, and really makes some noise when you stomp on it. It's significantly louder than the stock system, which is what I was looking for. Plus I get some more horsepower as a byproduct, but I can live with that! There's a drone at 2000 rpm, but since I have overdrive, the rpm's drop down to 1500 on the highway, and it's not a problem.
  You can read in detail about the entire installation process at the Paradise Garage.
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• BF Goodrich Comp T/A ZR4 tires: (3/12/1998)
  I figure this counts as a modification, since I replaced the factory Firestone tires with something much better! I've needed some tires for a while, and so far, I'm really happy with the BFG's. They make the handling very responsive, and stick to the road great. I went with the same size as stock (225/55-16), since it seemed a good compromise between wet and dry handling.
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• 180 degree thermostat: (4/19/1998)
  This thermostat replaces the stock 192 degree model, to help the car run cooler. Since the thermostat opens at a lower temperature, the antifreeze gets a chance to circulate more often. It's not too much work to swap this out, but it involves draining some of the antifreeze out of the radiator to a level that allows you to remove the upper radiator hose, and thermostat housing. There is a nozzle at the bottom of the radiator that you can attach a 3/8" hose to and then open a valve to drain the fluid. Draining about one and a half gallons is all that is necessary, and then the thermostat housing can be removed without much spillage. With the housing open, the old gasket needs to be scrapped off and the housing should be wiped clean. Then you can put in a new gasket and swap the thermostats. Make sure the thermostat faces the correct way, or it will not open to allow coolant through! I've noticed a definite drop in operating temperature after putting the new thermostat in, so those 12 degrees make a difference. With summer coming, it's going to be nice to have the engine running cool!
  You can read in detail about the entire installation process at the Paradise Garage.
  
• Fuel Pump Cut-Off Switch: (5/2/1998)
  Installing a fuel pump cut-off switch in a hidden location allows you to have greater protection against those who would like to steal your car. While the switch is off, the fuel pump will not receive any power, and someone who breaks into your car will not be able to start it without turning that switch on. I found the instructions for this modification at the link listed below, and they are quite complete. It requires that you cut the fuel pump's power wire, and insert a 12V relay, which is then attached to a switch. The switch can be mounted wherever you feel it is hidden, but accessible, and the whole thing should only take a few hours. Make sure your connections are solid, because you don't want the fuel pump losing power while you drive! Also, connect the switch to a constant 12V power source for best results. It's a good feeling, knowing that even if you're alarm is defeated, a thief will still have trouble running away with your car! This procedure can be used for any car with an electronic fuel pump, and if anyone needs more details about the installation procedure, I can send them to you.
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• "Mustang GT" emblems for rear valance & "302" emblems for the hood: (5/14/1998)
  As everyone knows, Mustangs are not the most rare cars. They're so much fun to own, everyone wants one for themselves! :) Anyway, in an effort to make my Mustang stand out a little bit from the rest, I've put on a few emblems to emphasize its "GT" status, and let everyone know it's the last of the 5.0s. The emblems are inexpensive, and easy to put on, as long as you take your time to make sure the letters go on straight. The new look turned out well, and the emblems really show up nice on the white paint job.
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• McGard Tough Locks: (7/10/1998)
  After working so hard to keep thieves from stealing my car, I realized that my nice GT wheels had been left unprotected. So, I ordered some wheel locks from Summit! You get a set of four locks, and stick one of them on each wheel, and then the wheels can only be removed with a key.
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• Fog Light Switch Re-wire: (8/18/1998)
  For some reason, Ford wired the fog lights so that they could only be turned on with the low beam headlights (from what I've read, 1999 Mustang's will not be like this). But if you re-wire the fog light switch like I did, you can turn the fog lights on independently of any other lights on the car. After getting to the wires on the fog light switch, you simply need to splice the power for the convertible top into the fog lights (all Mustang's have a convertible top wiring harness, including Coupes). This gives the fog lights switched power. The whole operation should only take a few minutes to complete, and gives you the ability to run your fog lights by themselves on the track, for a cool effect.
  You can read in detail about the entire installation process at the Paradise Garage.
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• Manual Cooling Fan Switch: (8/22/1998)
  The electric cooling fan on an SN95 Mustang is controlled by the car's computer, and only turns on at 210 degrees, or when the AC is operating. That's fine for the street, but when you're getting ready to run your car at the track, you want your car running as cool as possible to get the maximum amount of power. By installing a manual switch for the fan, I'm now able to cool the radiator at any time, instead of leaving the decision up to the computer. Installation involves running a switch to ground, and then routing a ground wire from this switch into the engine compartment and over to the PCM wire harness. The switch can be placed anywhere, and I placed mine in the block off plate for the rear window defroster. I also tapped into the power for the fog light switch in order to install a red LED that works in series with the fan switch, so I can tell when the fan is turned on. I tried the switch out the last time I was at the track, and it made a significant difference in cooling!
  You can read in detail about the entire installation process at the Paradise Garage.
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• 3.73 Rear Differential Gears: (9/21/1998)
  If you're running with stock gears, go get new ones! Switching to higher ratio gears made the biggest difference out of all of the modifications I've done so far. The gears don't give you more horsepower, but they change the way your current amount of power is used. This increases your acceleration dramatically, especially if you have an automatic transmission. I went with 3.73:1 ratio gears (stock was 2.73:1), and had them installed by a speed shop (Horsepower By Hermann). Some people believe 3.73 is too steep, and kills your gas mileage, but my mileage has only dropped about 2 mpg, and the benefits make up for the loss, in my opinion. Before the gears, my car ran a 15.9 sec @ 91.7 mph. After the gears, my time dropped to 15.1 @ 92.5 mph. You're not going to find many modifications that drop your times eight tenths of a second!
• Trans-Go Shift Kit: (10/4/1998)
  With the video and written instructions, this kit wasn't too difficult to install, plus it gave excellent results. After the kit was in place, shifts were quick and firm. With one washer, they weren't bone jaring shifts, but were firm enough to make you smile, and I was able to chirp 2nd gear when flooring the gas. I recommend this modification highly for a stock auto trans car! The combination of the shift kit, 3.73:1 rear gears, and a trans cooler can really wake up the performance, and set you back less than $500.
  You can read in detail about the entire installation process at the Paradise Garage.
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• Engine Oil Cooler & Transmission Oil Cooler: (10/11/1998)
  I never had a chance to test the effectiveness of the coolers, but both are proven to reduce oil temperatures, keeping the engine and transmission running smoothly. It's not possible to get transmission oil too cold, because the cooler the fluid, the better it is for the trans. Using a trans cooler is good insurance, and is inexpensive. Engine oil shouldn't be cooled too much below 180 degrees, otherwise it won't flow properly and protect the engine. But if it's too hot, it will break down faster and will also not protect the engine. The engine oil cooler I used had a check ball that would keep the engine oil from circulating in the cooler unless the oil was above a safe temperature. Make sure the cooler you use has this feature. The actual install of both coolers was basically a pain in the butt, and the final result left me with tiny engine oil leaks from the synthetic oil leaching through the fittings. I tried teflon tape, and making sure the fittings were tight, but I always had some oil loss. It wasn't excessive though, so I delt with it in order to get the benefits of cooler oil temperatures.
  You can read in detail about both installation processes at the, Paradise Garage: Oil Cooler [picture], Trans Cooler [picture].
  
• MAC 1-5/8" Unequal length (shorty) headers w/ Jet-Hot coating: (11/24/1998)
  The MAC headers have been great, and I've been very happy with them. I brought my car to Horsepower By Hermann to have them installed, but from what I understand, they're not too hard to put in, overall. You don't have to rework the dipstick, or anything else, because they are direct replacements. MAC headers come with a high-temp coating, but by itself, it won't last very long once the headers are on the car. The coating quickly discolors, and you'll eventually have rust, even with the coating. To prevent this, I went ahead and had my MAC headers coated by Jet-Hot, while they were still new. It's quite expensive (it basically doubled the cost of the headers), but well worth it, in my opinion. I'd highly suggest you get it done, if you're able to. The coating is a much higher quality than what comes from MAC, looks nicer (like chrome), is dent and chip proof, and is guaranteed for life, if it's done on a new part. Also, it does a better job of keeping the heat inside the headers, so it doesn't radiate out into the engine compartment. The coating is thicker and stronger than what you get from MAC. With the Jet-Hot coating, my headers still look as shiny as they did when I put them on, about 35,000 miles ago. There is no rust, or discoloring. But anyway, the headers themselves are nice, with or without the Jet-Hot coating. Without the coating though, they just won't last as long, or stay as nice looking. Something to think about!
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• Timing Advance: (11/24/1998)
  Advancing the timing is one of the most common methods of increasing engine power. Moving your car's timing forward and then using 93 octane gas can be good for as much as 5-10 hp, depending on how far you advance. I'd recommend that you check your timing, especially if your car has never been tuned up since it left the factory. My car had its timing set to 4 degrees, even though stock timing is supposed to be more like 9 or 10 degrees! Horsepower By Hermann advanced it to 10, but this caused pinging at high rpm's, because the car was running lean, so it was backed down to 8. My next step will be to purchase a fuel pressure regulator to help get rid of the lean condition, so I can advance the timing even further.
  
• Eibach Springs, KYB Shocks/Struts: (2/11/1999)
  Swapping out the stock springs for lower profile units is another common modification on late model Mustangs. The stock "truck" like ride height leaves a lot to be desired, so switching to Eibach springs really made a positive difference in the looks and handling on my car. The car was lower and with the addition of new shocks and struts, the car handled the turns a bit better as well. Unless you have the proper tools (like a spring compressor), you'll probably want a shop to do this modification. Also, be sure to replace the steering rack bushings with offset rack bushings, when you install lowering springs. If you forget to do this, you will not be able to get a proper alignment, and will wear out your tires a lot quicker than normal. One thing you also might want to do is buy caster/camber plates at the same time, so you can fully adjust your alignment. Even with the offset rack bushings, I was never able to get a perfectly true factory alignment, and shops kept telling me that caster/camber plates would solve the problem.
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• AutoMeter Electronic Oil Pressure Gauge: (5/1/1999)
  The Ford oil pressure sending unit and gauge do not give the owner a very accurate idea of how much engine oil is in the car. The gauge basically tells you "yes" or "no" about whether you have any oil in the engine at all. As long as the pressure reaches a certain threshold, the gauge reads a certain amount. In order to get an accurate picture, I installed an aftermarket oil pressure gauge in addition to the stock gauge. Some people install them in place of the stock gauge, but I wanted both gauges to work. This requires you to install a T fitting where the oil pressure is measured from the engine block, so you can mount the stock sender, and the new sender. The end result was a new, accurate engine oil pressure readout that let me know if the car was running properly. I felt better knowing I'd see the oil pressure drop if there was a problem, unlike with the stock gauge, where you're in the dark about the exact pressure.
  You can read in detail about the entire installation process at the Paradise Garage.
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• AutoMeter Electronic Transmission Temperature Gauge: (5/1/1999)
  To be honest, this gauge was never extremely useful. It told me the transmission oil temperature on my automatic transmission. While this can be interesting information, there's not much you can do with it. My theory was that if the temperature ever read above normal, I'd know there was a problem with the trans, and I could shut the car off before I did permanent damage, since heat is the primary enemy of an automatic transmission. To get a reading, I had to remove the trans oil pan and drill a hole for the temperature sender. The sender then needed to be welded into place, and wired up to the gauge. I brought the pan to a local welding shop, and the did the welding for only a few bucks.
  You can read in detail about the entire installation process at the Paradise Garage.
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• Aeromotive/BBK Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator: (5/25/1999)
  An aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (FPR) will let you adjust the fuel pressure going to the fuel injectors, so you can supply the engine with more fuel than the stock setup. This ability to adjust the fuel pressure becomes necessary once you do enough modifications that the car makes enough power to run lean at 38 psi. The swap to an adjustable regulator is easy, and should only take 5-10 minutes. One thing to watch out for is the little rubber O-ring below the stock regulator. Make sure it doesn't get lost in the engine compartment, because most replacement regulators don't come with another one, and without it you'll have a major fuel leak. I started with an Aeromotive FPR, which broke after about two weeks because of a weak diaphragm. They took it back under warranty and rebuilt it, and it lasted almost two years before breaking again. This time it wasn't under warranty, so I bought a Paxton regulator, only to find out it is a re-badged Aeromotive product. Still shy to use another Aeromotive/Paxton, I bought my third and final regulator, which was made by BBK. I had no issues with this regulator during the six months I used it before selling the car.
  You can read in detail about the entire installation process at the Paradise Garage.
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• AutoMeter Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauge: (5/25/1999)
  If you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, a fuel pressure gauge is an absolute requirement! You need to have a way to measure the fuel pressure when you make adjustments. There are many type of gauges, like ones that sit in the engine compartment, on the fuel rail, electronic gauges, and mechanical gauges. I decided on a mechanical fuel pressure gauge because it was easier to install, cheaper, and resulted in a unique look for a SN95 Mustang. You don't see hardly any SN95's with a gauge on the hood!
  You can read in detail about the entire installation process at the Paradise Garage.
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• BF Goodrich Comp T/A ZR4 tires: (6/12/1999)
  Time for new tires again! I've really been happy with the BFG's, so I bought the same tire, in a slightly bigger size. This time I got the largest size you can reasonably fit on 16" wheels, which were 245/50-16. They have a wider footprint than stock, and in dry weather, help handling more than the 225/55-16's.
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• Custom Cold Air Induction Setup: (7/25/1999)
  This was my first attempt at a fully custom engineered project, starting with an idea, and moving on to obtaining the materials and building the cold air setup from scratch. Pulling cold air into the engine from the fender, instead of from the hot engine compartment, is a sure way to increase power. Plus in my case, I was hoping to rid myself of the infamous SN95 pinging issue by not having the car suck so much hot air into the intake. Once the cold air setup was complete, I tested it at the track, and it did clear up my pinging issues for a while (until the supercharger mod, which heated up the air enough that on hot days with the A/C on, the car would ping again). The whole setup cost less than $50 to put together, and it really works!
  You can read in detail about the entire installation process at the Paradise Garage.
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• Tri-D H-pipe (w/ high flow cats):(11/6/1999)
  Up until this point, I'd upgraded 2/3 of the exhaust by replacing the headers, and the cat-back, including the mufflers. But I'd skipped the middle of the system, which cut down on the flow of the front and back on my exhaust system. So now I finally replaced the stock h-pipe, with a mandrel bent, high flow cat h-pipe. This pipe from Tri-D gave better results than a typical x-pipe setup, according to a popular Mustang magazine, so that's why I went with it. It has two catalytic converters on it, instead of the four that are on the stock h-pipe, yet should still pass emission requirements. Getting the old pipe off wasn't bad, but lining the new pipe up and getting it over the mounts by the transmission crossmember can be difficult. But once I was done, I had better exhaust flow, and an even more agressive exhaust sound.
  You can read in detail about the entire installation process at the Paradise Garage.
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• FMS Aluminum Driveshaft:(10/2000)
  You can read in detail about the entire installation process at the Paradise Garage.
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• AutoMeter Electronic Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge:(10/2000)
  Installed! Information coming soon...
  
• BBK 190lph Fuel Pump:(11/2000)
  Installed! Information coming soon...
  
• FMS 24lb Fuel Injectors, Pro-M 77mm Mass Air Meter:(11/2000)
  Installed! Information coming soon...
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• AutoMeter Mechanical Boost Gauge:(11/2000)
  Installed! Information coming soon...
  
• Tefba Coolant Filter:(11/2000)
  You can read in detail about the entire installation process at the Paradise Garage.
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• Vortech V2 SQ-Trim Supercharger:(11/2000)
  Installed! Information coming soon...
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• Tremec TKO 5-Speed Transmission:(12/2000)
  Installed! Information coming soon...
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• Shift Light:(2/2001)
  Mostly installed! Information coming soon...
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• Custom 3" Steel Driveshaft:(3/2001)
  Installed (to replace the aluminum driveshaft!) Information coming soon...
  
• Dyno Session:(4/14/2001)
  271 rear-wheel horse power, 321 ft/lb rear-wheel torque! More information coming soon...
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• Bleeder Valve For Vortech FMU:(6/5/2001)
  Installed! Information coming soon...
  
• UPDATE! (8/7/2001)
  The end of an era! I've sold the Mustang. It's too bad things could not have worked out differently, but the Mustang was starting to show it's age (86,000 miles), plus all of the modifications I'd made were starting to take their toll on daily driver reliability. Unfortunately I didn't have the money to keep making payments on the Mustang and also get a comparable daily driver. I've learned a lot while owning the Mustang, and it was a great car while it fit my needs. Although there will be no more updates to this page, keep the Mustang related technical questions and comments coming! I still have lots of knowledge to share.

Bought, But Not Installed (aka - Parts for sale!)

• Parts for sale! With the Mustang gone, I'm selling off my leftover components at great prices.
  All prices are negotiable. I'd just like to get them off my hands, and into a good home.
  Check out the... Paradise Garage Sale.

Future Plans

• MSD Ignition Module
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• Custom Burned Computer Chip
  
• Cobra Upper/Lower Intake Manifold
  
• GT-40 Iron Heads
  
• 1.70 Cobra Roller Rockers
  
• BBK Throttle Body
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• Suspension Components upgrade (sub-frame connectors, pan-hard bar, lower control arms, etc.)
  

Questions? Comments? E-Mail